photos by David Fason

I’ve been destroying workwear for decades now. But the hunt for quality workwear only started a year ago. My wife put on her nice fitting and well made work pants (Dovetail Britt Utility pants)… and I… put on one of my four pairs of my ragged out Carhartts, full of holes and rips, threadbare in the thighs, knees and ass. The pant is a great idea but they are made to our current day disposable clothing standards. To say I was let down by what I worked in day in and day out was an understatement. And this was the straw that broke my back. When I’m not in the shop, I’m in the garden or sorting out some new old house issue. The clothes I called workwear always wore out fast. Because we all know, a self employed person never really has time off, I would leave the shop to pick up some supplies and wind up dinner with my family, looking like a total mess. It was time to dig in and find the work pant for me.

My criteria: USA made, attention to detail and quality, extra durable, nice fitting and preferably double knee. I started my search in Winter 2022 and really limited myself by thinking I could find lined work pants (spoiler alert, they do not exist). If anyone reading this wants to join forces with me and design a winter work pant, I’m your guy. What I found was eye opening, there’s an entire world of companies making amazing gear, ranging in size from small two-person shops to entire factories that have been around for over a century. Many with an eye for design, workmanship, innovation, quality standards and a pride of manufacturing in the United States. Does the perfect American made workwear exist? After reviewing a number of pants, shirts, boots and accessories, I believe it does.

LC King - 5 Pocket Duck & Chore Coat

In my search for work wear, I was aware of LC King MFG, only 25 miles away from my shop, but I really had not clue what they made. I picked up their 5 Pocket Jean in Olive Duck & Chore Coat in Brown Duck. Upon my initial opening, the vibes were from industrial bygone era, spot on with their marketing. Simple and stout. I could immediately tell these were made to last. The pants were reminiscent of a mix between everyday jeans and Carhartts with a work-pant fit and much nicer quality including triple stitched seams. The lack of a hammer loop and extraneous pockets really clicked for me. I absolutely love the pants and the quality and simplicity check major boxes for me. Most accessible price tag of the bunch at $122.

The chore coat is made using 12oz cotton duck from Mount Vernon Mills in Trion, GA and it softened up after one wash yet still commands respect. I subject my arms to lots of crud: sparks, dust, hot scale from 2000 degree steel and the dust generated from ceramic grinding belts. The 100% cotton canvas can handle both heat and sparks. The tightly woven canvas is impervious - even when I hit myself with the compressed air, this coat feels like a windbreaker. I love the fit, and even in late spring on warmer days, the coat is not so warm that I have to take it off for my breaks in the yard. Makes me think it’ll be a good farm coat as well. The bonus is that this fantastic company is just down the road from my shop. “Today, Jack King strives to uphold his great-grandfather’s commitment to excellence by continuing to make iconic workwear—whether it’s our classic triple-stitched overalls or a global fashion collaboration. Like those before him, Jack believes in the dream of making clothing of exceptional quality right here in the United States of America. It’s as much our Company’s heritage as it is our Country’s.”

Parkhurst Boots, Grown & Sewn Foundation pants

Grown & Sewn - Union Pant, Foundation Pant & Walsh Work Shirt

I got to try the double knee union pant and it’s got a great fit and quality - hearty feeling yet comfy out of the box. The pockets and design seem to give these pants a warm vintage vibe. Excellent shipping speed. I find myself tempering my desire to wear them because I don’t want to wear them out too quickly. The duck fabric breaks in quickly and I’m enjoying that. The fabric is more comfortable than others and shows some dramatic fading after a few washes. My wife loves they way they look, always a plus.

Next, I put on their Foundation Pant, which is an excellent everyday pant. It’s on the lighter side of things without a double need or triple stitched seams, however the fit is just tailored enough that this pant wears easily in the shop without bulkiness to slow you down or get

caught on shit. I have found that I don’t love a ton of bulk in my work pants and this tailored fit relieves having to think twice before leaving the shop on my way to the brewery or to catch a bite. Comfortable and made using their signature State Side Canvas, I found it easy to dress these up after work by throwing on a clean shirt that isn’t soaked in sweat.

Finally, I got to try their Walsh Work Shirt - which is reminiscent of a 1950’s mechanic’s shirt. It’s classic and timeless and you can tell some major thought was put into the fabric choices. The shirt is comfortable, durable and wears great. They are tailored enough that they don’t get hung up in the shop or threaten my grinding situation at all. These take it all and keep me from looking goofy when I head out after work to grab a bite. After I came across Grown & Sewn, I quickly grew to love Joe, one of the two good humans who run it out of Brooklyn, NY. He takes it seriously while making it fun. The work with an assortment of my favorite musicians as well as Alton Brown. We get to dork out about bikes, music, food, art and now, knives and pants. Grab some of their stuff, as you are sure to love it. Very small and accommodating company, based in Brooklyn, NY with production in an old family run shop in San Fransisco, CA that used to sew for Levi’s.

Fusing stainless and carbon steel for a laminated chefs knife

HARDEN CO. - 010 double knee pants & Linen & Cotton Workshirt

I love these pants. Pretty unique design in terms of pocket configuration for a workpant but I get it, you’ve got to love what you do and these guys definitely seem to have fun with the pocket and seam layout. They’re constantly innovating and creating one of a kind clothing. Harden Co is a pretty small team, like two or three folks. They started the business over a decade ago (2010) in one of their parents garage when they couldn’t find the pants they wanted. They stand behind their product with unlimited repairs. Very easy to get on the same page as them as it was my parents backyard where I made the knife that started it all, and just about a decade ago when HWF became full time.

It took me a minute to warm up to the pants to be honest, but I love them. Excellent workmanship throughout and made with sanforized 12 oz. Mount Vernon Mills brown duck canvas, which I’m learning is a great fabric. The sewn in key ring and cell pocket are practical touches. Maybe too many pockets for me to actually use but I love finding surprises from my toddler in them when I go to wash them. I also tried their 2023 Yoshiwa Mills linen & cotton work shirt. It’s stylish as hell and I’m still getting over the fear of dripping epoxy on it or burning a hole through it but it’s comfortable and can tell I’m going to just fall more and more in love with it as time goes on. Anything with linen in it is good in my book - breathes nicely and feels protective. I love a long sleeve workshirt while I’m grinding to keep metal and ceramic dust off my forearms, which are growing sensitive to the elements I subject them to in my shop. Keep an eye on their website for some truly cool stuff that you will not find anywhere else.

Harden Co. & first step in forging a chefs knife

Left Field NYC - Double Knee Work Chino

I picked up the Chocolate Duck Double Knee Work Uniform Chino made with 13 oz Mt. Vernon Mill duck fabric. When they arrived, I felt like I was opening something very special, a relic from the future maybe. This cool dark brown work pant with bright green threading throughout was something special. A reverence for the process of recreating things of the past. Great general work weight with an old fashioned boxy fit that could easily be layered under on cold winter days. The 13 oz Mt. Vernon Mills duck fabric breaths nicely and takes a beating in the shop. I’m a sucker for this chocolate fabric and green threading. Could be the coolest double knee pants I’ve worn.

“Left Field grew out of small shotgun apartments and lofts throughout Brooklyn. Every step of its growth I was personally a part of, from carrying rolls of fabrics in the back of my truck, and then up and down elevators in the Garment District, to climbing over bags of clothing to get out of bed. Although the brand has been through many phases over the years, making quality, American clothing that our grandfathers would be proud of has always been my number one concern.”

- Christian McCann, Founder Left Field NYC

Freenote Cloth - Slim Fit Rios & Outdoorsman Chino, 9oz Pocket Tshirt & Shifter Tee

Sewn from 17 ounce slub selvedge denim from Japan. That’s right, 17oz! Super thick, super durable and somehow not uncomfortable. They felt like slipping into body armor, which is exactly how I want to feel when I walk into my shop full of fire and sharp things. Once these are fully broken in, it will be hard wear much else. I love a good sturdy slim fit pant. The blacked out aesthetic works for me since it will camouflage my filth, but Freenote perhaps intended this to ring a western bell, which is respectable. They stay out of my way in the shop, the lack of extra pockets keeps me from tracking metal dust into the house and the lack of bulk keeps my movement about the shop nimble when working on small batches of knives.

I also picked up the Outdoorsman Chino made with reproduction military fabric from Japan complete with real horn buttons from Italy. Super comfortable and thick enough to feel protective. They are so clean looking, it may take a while before they fully become work pants, but this is another pair I could live in. Excellent workmanship. The Japanese fabric is thick without being stiff.

Freenote Cloth Outdoorsman Chino - reproduction Japanese military fabric

Next up from Freenote Cloth is their 9 ounce tshirt. This is, hands down, my favorite tshirt. After I put it on, I settled right into the perfect fit and the richness of the fabric. Everyone, go and buy one now. Available on the Freenote site under wovens.

Lastly, I tried their Shifter - 13 ounce tshirt. Damn, I don’t know that I’ve ever worn a heavier duty tshirt. After I get it broken in a bit further, I’ll return here to tell you more. I was skeptical about whether or not I’d wear stripes but after a few days in the shop, I felt right at home in this thick cocoon. It’s got a super nice feel and breaths super well for being so thick. “Freenote creates quality menswear manufactured in the United States. We source the finest materials and demand the highest level of craftsmanship. Our inspiration comes from authentic American culture and its timeless style icons.”

Grease Point - Work Trouser

I was able to snag a pair of their work trouser in the sought after Nihon Menpu selvedge - and after a few washes, they’re still starchy and stiff. They’re going to be a bomb winter pant. A little bulkier than I was hoping, but I think that will age out as they break in and get washed and abused. I love them even though it’s way too hot for them. I want to live in them. I wish their knife pocket was a little larger so I could use it for my cell phone too. Beautiful pants. Excellent workmanship. “…born out of the desire to create something beautiful, functional, and enduring. I am inspired by my upbringing in a hard-working family on an organic farm in Colorado, and a long time passion for skateboarding and its style-centric culture. I make clothing with work in mind using the best materials available, while placing high importance on detail and aesthetic.” - Amos Culbertson

Red Clouds Collective - GN.01 Fitted Work Pant

Caught me off guard with zero hem option on their website and I bought a sewing machine to accommodate this (I later broke several needles and bent a few more). Their canvas is more tightly woven and durable than I’m used to. Thus, they are less comfortable out of the box, but actually protective when doing hard work in them. Immediately popped a rivet off accidentally and their customer service was great with a quick repair turnaround. So far, I really like the way they’re breaking in and fitting better with time. Enjoying the cell phone pocket and minimal other pockets. They feel very classic and I find myself reaching for this pair more and more often. “Good things take time and effort. We started Red Clouds Collective to bring to life products inspired by our lifestyles and the people who share our values: our love of exploring the world and our belief in living a life that fulfills your creative appetite.”

1620 - Double Knee NYCO

Fabric has a definite synthetic feel out of the box, something (along with way too many pockets) that was a bit of a turnoff to me at first, but their fire resistant rating kept me interested. Immediately I noticed the unimpressive ship time. The slim fit got exchanged for a normal because the lift of my knees felt severely limited. They did have a nice tailored fit though. Very “tactical” vibe, not my preference. Everytime I wear them, I lose stuff in all the pockets and spend too much time searching for whatever it was that I just threw in my pocket. They felt a like putting on my drum bags from 1999. They will be much better in the winter as the fabric is THICK and not super breathable. I want to like them but they are simply a lot of pant. They do feel durable, like they will actually protect me from something in my shop, but are terribly uncomfortable at first. Giving then time to break in further. Did I mention, way too many pockets?

Setting the tang by hand, using hammer and anvil

Taylor Stitch - Wharf Pants & Lined Chore Pants*

After a week of wearing them hard in the shop, I feel like they are holding up well and to my abuse - the tight knit boat canvas is as tough as it feels and I like that it’s not waxed yet is VERY wind resistant and light wait yet durable. Albeit a little less comfy. After trashing these and giving them a couple washes, there’s something about the fabric that doesn’t allow it come clean, almost as though they stain easily - but the tightly woven boat canvas has obvious advantages in that it’s less lightly to get snagged, seems to repel moisture from grinding wet blades and on cool breezy days in the Winter of East Tennessee, it’s almost like wearing a windproof pant that will not leave you praying that you don’t catch on fire.

Ordered lined chore pant, pretty unimpressive ship speed and put them on and immediately loved them. Did I just get in the sleeping bag from my childhood? The “stretch” doesn’t seem too stretchy and I actually had to look it up and confirm that it IS stretch because it just isn’t as stretchy as I’ve come to expect! A sweet surprise. I originally didn’t consider this pant because it contains stretch and is imported. This pant asked me to compromise and that effects how I feel wearing it. Very comfortable and there are no extraneous pockets and hammer loops. ***A major bummer that these are imported.***

American Giant - Roughneck Pant & Classic Full Zip Hoodie

First impressions, Roughneck pants seem really light weight, just in time for summer. As I mentioned, the stretch was originally something I was trying to avoid but I do love the zero break in period and their low mass comfort. This brand advertised that its priority is community and supports American grown cotton and manufacturing. I immediately threw them on and ran back to the shop to finish heat treating some blades. Very comfortable and light. Will be a good travel pant, summer work pant and good for a jaunt to the brewery or a day hike. The hoodie first impression: sweet. I see how this was their flagship item. It weighs more than the pants by at least double. I love the feel, fit and quality. Good stout zipper and reinforced elbows, forearms. A+ hoodie. Although I haven’t tested it in my shop yet - I know it will be an essential this winter. Classic black color. Check back later for a more thorough review of this hoodie.

Origin - Delta 68 & Factory Jeans

With their sometimes overly masculine marketing, I was surprised when these things felt more like lounge wear. I could sleep in these they’re so comfortable. I’m not sure if there is a break in period on these super light wearers. Stretchy and soft - these will be the perfect pant for days I have to run errands or when I’m not necessarily needing protection from my hard use day job. However, I know they will hold up with their stout build quality featuring triple stitched seams. These will find their niche as great pants for lighter duty days in the shop like finishing and shipping, also hiking when I want I want lots of movement and not much weight. They pride themselves on the Delta 68 denim and I see why, it’s quite uniquely very stretchy which is just not what I’m looking for in a work pant. The Factory Jeans are thicker (still super stretchy) and would be ideal for a chillier day or more abusive work. From their website, it’s hard not love this, “A blockchain of manufacturing, starting with Texas cotton, grown sustainably by farmers with soul. Woven in Trion, Georgia at America’s last surviving denim mill. Cut and sewn with pride at the ORIGIN factory in North Carolina. Washed and dried for a pre-shrunk, out of the box fit. Iconic American Denim has been reborn and freedom has been restored.”

Devium - Alder Long Sleeve Flannel Shirt

It will be a little while before I’m comfortable really abusing this vintage inspired shirt. The fuzzy flannel collects metal shavings very easily Albeit, it’s not advertised as a work shirt, it’s a beautiful weave and I had to try it. It will be great for a winter underlayment and perfect for cooler fall evenings at the local brewery.

Red Wing - #875 Classic Moc

What an honor to wear these boots in my shop - a time honored classic work boot. The Traction Tred seems to make this Red Wing Heritage very comfortable out of the box and a nice change of pace given my cement floors. They feel like I’m floating on clouds and are almost bouncy. It was a bit of a tough pill to swallow bringing these brand new into my dirty shop, but after a few wears, they looked like they’d been around for a lifetime. Paired with some laces from Pisgah Range LTD, these boots are an instant favorite. Without a doubt, these trump my old works boots as I can head straight to the brewery after I leave the shop. Furthermore, as a patina nut, I’m very much looking forward to watching how the Oro Legacy leather develops into its own, not unlike how a carbon steel chefs knife develops a rich and unique patina from use over time.

Parkhurst - The Richmond

Surprisingly badass in the shop! At first, I thought these boots would be so nice I could only wear them out, but they are stout and clearly well built. Parkhurst is focused on building in natural breath-ability, shock absorption and conformation to their boots and I can feel it from the first wear. This was obvious from the get-go and I’m excited for my future with these boots. They offer support and comfort with a timeless, warm design and unassuming appearance. Another great candidate for heading to the watering hole after work without changing. Manufactured in Spain and USA. “The idea for Parkhurst was born, and continues, here in Buffalo, New York. The goal was simple - build a quality boot with soul, but one which struck a balance between dress and work - or as we like to refer to it, elegant but rugged.”

Nicks Handmade Boots - 6” Urban Drifter HNW

This is a whole new experience for me. Slipping in to these I can tell they are of a different breed. The fit is what I would call perfect. It feels like a very strong person is hugging my foot. These will take a while to break in but my first impressions are that they I am likely being converted once everything else wears out.

Vermont Glove - The Vermonter

I got to try a pair of their flagship work glove, lovingly named the Vermonter, made with durable goatskin leather - both soft and dexterous. I basically only take these off for meals now. In my shop they’re great for power forging, when there is a lot of excess heat, material handling (rusty, rough and sharp reclaimed steel, using with angle grinders to clean steel and for plasma cutting.

But wait, that’s not all! In the garden, they’re great for using with the rake and shovel or working in the briars. I’m halfway considering using a pair for winter driving gloves. I’m sold and will never buy another work glove again. These are hand made in Vermont by a small company that advocates for environmental stewardship, economic equity and social responsibility - it’s a no brainer.

Pisgah Range LTD - laces

These thick aftermarket laces instantly added comfort to the three pairs of boots I tried them on. And if I had to describe them with a single word, it would be “luscious.” Aside from that, they come in all sorts of great, hard to decide on colors. I literally was taken back to being a little kid in a candy shop, it’s a good feeling. Ryan will have at least a few colors you can’t live without and some more that you just have to try. They’ve got the perfect flex to add a lot of comfort when you upgrade the stock laces out of any boot. I went ahead and put a pair on the three most worn pairs of boots in my house. I am sold on these. Ryan, who runs this small company, is easy to work with and friendly and we connected on photography geekery. What’s more is they’re based just over the mountain from my shop, in beautiful Brevard, NC. For some great photos and even better laces, check them out. “Pisgah Range LTD is a company that strives to provide the best bootlaces money can buy. It's that simple.”

FINAL THOUGHTS: I hate picking favorites

To sum things up, I feel like my hunt for the perfect work pant is pretty much over. I am still turning over stones and will update this post with my findings. The nuances of work environments, type of work, fit specifics of different body types weather vary greatly, and it’s impossible to pick one pant that does it all. What I will say is that you should do your research and check out each company’s website (just click the company name in bold, they’re links). Many of them offer advice on getting the correct fit and some are super helpful if you just reach out.

LC King - 5 Pocket Duck The simple, well built, local wonder
Grown & Sewn - Union Double Knee The original sexy work pant
Grown & Sewn - Foundation The good looking everyday work pant
HARDEN CO. - 012 Pant The tough & stylish work pant
Left Field NYC - Double Knee Work Chino The modern solid classic double knee
Freenote Cloth - Slim Fit Rios Protect me and stay out of the way, cowboy!
Freenote Cloth -Outdoorsman Chino Squeezing in a few hours of work before drinks
Grease Point - Work Trouser No, I will not take these off
Red Clouds Collective - GN.01 Fitted Work Pant My spirit pant
1620 - Double Knee NYCO I put my keys in one of these pockets and now I can’t fine them
Taylor Stitch - Wharf Pant The indestructible moisture wicking wonder
American Giant - Roughneck Pant It’s hot and I’m leaving town
Origin - Delta 68 & Factory Jeans The jeans that feel like pajamas